I am incredibly excited to tell you about a project I have been working on! The Heidelberg University has scanned in a full German manuscript from 1471 that includes a treasure of brocade patterns. Including patterns for beading with pearls! The manuscript is in excellent condition, and the scans are very detailed.
Take a peak at the link below! I had the book printed and spiral bound at Staples. The original manuscript is about 7.5 x 10″ so only slightly smaller than the letter size paper used here.
When I first began researching this book I wanted to really “see” the patterns, so began by just transcribing them onto a graph style instead of the numbers format used in the book. This allows us to see a picture of the design and is a method more commonly used today. I went through the first 200 pages of the manuscript this way. I printed graph paper, but then worked entirely by hand. Here is a preview of those graphs:
I also wove a selection of the designs. Initially I chose designs that were error free and repeated easily. I sampled these using 60/2 silk dyed a dark blue with a 2/20 silk brocade thread in light gold. I am using wooden cards, and a simple U shaped wooden loom. The 15th century painting of a woman brocading in the Book that fist Jehan BOCAC de Certalde of the cleres and noble women, which he sent to Audice de Accioroles of Florence, Countess of Haulteville guided my selection of loom, cards, wooden weaving swords, and wooden bobbins.
This is one of the sections I have woven:
I had a theory that I had actually patterned the bands backwards – what I had charted as brocade was the ground threads and vice versa. Through the assistance of Mistress Drea translating the German text in the manuscript, I was able to confirm my theory.
Meeting people who could help with the German text made this project even more exciting, and I decided to start again at the beginning. Already I was recognizing patterns of words that repeated themselves and with an actual translator to help a whole new world of options quickly opened up.
My goal with the project is to end up with a hand written manuscript that is easily understood, and to the best of my ability, true to the intentions of the original writers.
As the book has pages that are lined and ready to be written on, I chose to also create a template page. I created a lightly lined grid paper that was the same size as the original book, and offset to eventually allow for binding. I began at page 1 with Mistress Drea’s assistance on the German language. These are the initial results:
Each page contains the original pattern as written, including any miscounts or errors. (I will admit these often evoke a chuckle of empathy as I have certainly had similar mistakes in my own pattern making.) To the right side I have made notes about the placement of pearls and any suggested pattern changes. I will be continuing this project and adding pages to the blog as they are completed.
Meanwhile you are likely to find me in a position remarkably like this one (Thank you Mistress Brig for the photo!)
Note: Claudia Wollny, whose work I admire and deeply respect, has announced the publication of a book inspired by this manuscript. Copies are available for preorder at this time, and I believe will be shipping to the US this week. I began this project before her announcement, and we have been working separately on our interpretations of the original manuscript. I’ll finish my work before ordering a copy of Claudia’s book.