The first page consists of short notes about the civilization and area
The next section of pages are images from the island, the ruins, and the frescoes there.
The next section consists of reproductions by Jones (major authority!) and a few inspired paintings that are particularly well done.
The colored edge drawings are mine – I started with the basic shape of a woman and outlined the various dresses we see in the fresco images. This helps compare the overall shape and layers of the dresses.
The final pages are jewelry, hairstyles, and shoes to finish off the look.
I had never attempted to sew a garment before the SCA.
I have the abundant hips of a modern woman who enjoys a well fed lifestyle.
So much trial and error!
Several months into my SCA journey I was given a handout on rectangular tunic construction by Hanim Gulenay, OL and HE Suvia filia Heriberti. This handout was a game changer for me. It was clearly written and explained tunic construction and alternatives in ways that made sense to a complete novice.
With permission from Mistress Hanim, here is the handout:
It has fantastic suggestions for fabric, the history of the pattern, as well as two patterns for rectangular tunics, a fuller one and a more fitted version. I use the more fitted version, and most of these notes will apply to that.
Referring back to that novice seamstress part, a half dozen dresses later I’ve finally learned a good bit about how to measure, cut, and assemble squares to fit a very not-square body. Here are a few notes that I hope will help:
The handout gives the following graphic for measurements:
A: I prefer a higher shoulder seam, so use a measurement that is just a little past my bra straps. I use favorite tank tops that aren’t tight but fit well for most of my measurements.
B: Because A is higher up on my shoulder, it’s important to start B from the same spot and measure all the way down to my wrist.
C: This is the measurement that took me the longest to work out. I was told to use my full shoulder circle, and then later to use half of that. What I’ve learned is that “it depends”. Generally, individuals with larger biceps and upper arms will want a larger armhole for more movement. For me, about ¾ of the total circle works well. I use a shirt with comfortable armholes as a starting point, and measure this way:
D: This measurement works with C, and it’s important that they stay together. The top of D must start where the bottom of C ends.
NOTES: This is probably the measurement I’ve played with the most to get the pattern to fit. I’m very pear shaped, and in order to have a fitted torso but enough ease to comfortably flare over my hips, I’ve shortened this measurement to about 5.5 – 6″. This means the flare starts higher on the sides, and affords me plenty of wiggle room, while still giving a nice silhouette.
Page 7: This page is where you’ll calculate the measurements for the side gores. Do add the 4″ of ease, and don’t forget seam allowances on both sides of pieces. Make a note of the top measurement of your top gores, you’ll need that in the next step!
Shaping the Pieces
Sleeves: The sleeve shape is not a flat top triangle, but actually has some shaping at the widest part as well. Like this:
Begin with the arm measurement plus seam allowance and draw that line. Add straight lines at a 90 degree angle that are the same length as the top of your upper gores. Then angle the sleeve inward until you reach the length and width of your sleeve and wrist measurements.
I’ve used this pattern a LOT now. For Viking underdresses, Rus over and underdresses, and even just cut the front all the way down for a perfectly fitted Ottoman coat.
Please feel free to ask questions if I can be of any help!
I bring whole new meaning to the word novice seamstress
Toddler factor (it’s like trying to layout and cut fabric with a dozen cats in the room)
I am very pear shaped, not something all dress dummies work well with
Budget, budget, budget
I’ve heard about the “duct tape dress form” a few times in the SCA but didn’t have much more than a vague idea of some silver tape, my body, and a pair of scissors. Today a group of ladies got together and actually made them – successfully! So here is a walk through of the process, guidance courtesy of Mistress Marion Leoncina da Susa.
Things you’ll need:
A sacrificial t-shirt, form fitting
Duct tape – about 3 rolls, doesn’t have to be name brand but that did seem to be more stiff and hold shape a bit better.
Filler – packing paper, newspaper, etc
Something to hang your dress form on that is your height
2×4 stand that is shoulder height
make a stand from PVC pipe and joints
Floor lamp and cross beam
A Friend! This is definitely a 2 or more project
Get dressed! Mistress Marion pointed out that you’ll need to wear the same undergarments you plan on wearing in your finished garb. Bust silhouettes changed over the SCA period and using the right undergarments will let you shape your finished garb to the shape you’re working towards.
She also suggested two t-shirts. This let the scissors slide between the duct taped sacrificial t-shirt and the undershirt, rather than on bare skin.
Make sure hair is pulled up and out of the way. Stand in a comfortable position with your arms loosely at your side. Don’t suck in – you’ll want to be able to breath both during this and in your garb!
The first layer of duct tape carefully follows the contours of the body. The key here is to keep the duct tape flat. You’re not looking for straight lines, but for smooth tape.
Step 2 notes: Keep standing still (ish – I’m bad at this!) and keep breathing :). Having someone to tear strips of tape while the other person applied them made this a lot easier.
Step 3: Apply a 2nd layer of duct tape. You want these strips crossing over the first layer in an X shape. Make sure to cover from neck to hip, and over the top of the shoulder.
Watch out for hair! Our tape tearer also served as a hair holder upper 🙂
Step 4: Apply a 3rd layer of duct tape, again crossing directions with the 2nd layer. The back and forth layers function like a basket grid – holding the shape firmly.
Step 5: Cut! Using sharp scissors, slide a hand between the two shirts at the lower back and then cut up the center back of the shape.
Step 6: Wiggle out! The form is shaped!
Step 7: Build / find / jury rig a frame. You’ll need some kind of vertical post and a crossbar that is slightly narrower than your shoulders.
Use 2″ x 4″ wood to build an armor stand or pell shape
Use PVC pipe and joints to build a stand that can break apart for travel
Use a standing lamp and cross bar! I used strapping tape to afix a shoulder bar to the lamp just a little below my shoulder height.
Step 8: Stuff it! I started at the top and used packing paper to adjust the dress form to be right at my height.
I ended up doing this in a few steps. I stuffed the very top and shoulders while it was standing up. Then angled it onto a chair to stuff the chest and upper back. Then a very supportive hubby held the entire thing upside down so I could stuff the bottom and hips of the form. A few more strips of tape across the bottom of the arms, over the neckline, and under the body of the form and voila!
Delia and Margarett kindly added some additional suggestions!
Use a dowel drying rod to hold additional strips of tape. This goes fastest with at least one tape tearer and two tape appliers.
While the form is still on -use a sharpie to mark the belly button, center of the chest, center of the back, and shoulder seams.
If you want a high neck, use a separate scrap of cloth to wrap around your neck.
Putting a tight T-shirt on the form after it’s stuck will cover any sticky edges and give your pins something to stick into.